I know a fair number of people read Ponohouse that don’t read my new e-magazine: Ke Nalu. I’ve been writing a daily column in the magazine for about a week when I realized “this column is a ponohouse column!”–same style, same topic, which is basically the stuff I do to have fun in Maui. So I’ve decided to write them here, and then transfer them to Kenalu. I’m posting the four I’ve done to catch folks up.
Here’s the first, titled Big Sissy
I sure am glad the wind came up at Kanaha early this morning, it gave me an excuse to get off the water without admitting that I was scared. OK, I was. When I showed up Randy (from StandUpZone) and Frank (Lightning Bolt) were screwing around with Randy’s new gorgeous video camera. I asked how the surf was while I took my board off the funmobile, and they said in near unison “messy”. It was indeed. I paddled out with absolute confidence until I reached the channel and noticed that occasionally the waves were closing it out. Still, I punched through with no big problems, the rideable waves were overhead to one and a half, which didn’t concern me too much. There were three prone surfers out–that was it.
What bothered me was the angle–it was from the northeast, and it was making a bowl-shaped face that I remember all too well from the first few days I got back to Maui in January. They beat the crap out of me then. Closes out at both ends and smacks you in the middle unless you’re really fast down the line.
I’m not.
Still, I felt that my surfing had progressed enough so I could be comfortable with the waves so I watched a few to get my bearings and suddenly realized I couldn’t tell the big waves from the small. The swell was thick rather than tall, and the big waves leaped up very suddenly when they reached the reef. In fact, while I was messing around trying to figure things out I got caught inside and worked a little bit. I think it was then that I lost my camera. I had stuck my Xacti waterproof video cam in my back pocket. Normally having it pop out would be no big deal–I’d just paddle around and look for it. I have a red floating soft lanyard attached to it, and it’s easy to spot. But I didn’t notice it missing until later, and in the “victory-at-sea conditions it would be hard to spot. So if you find a blue Xacti with a red lanyard on it… I suspect it will show up somewhere in Tahiti in a month or so.
Anyway, I got back out to the lineup and watched a few more waves. I was considering bailing on the whole idea when Chan paddled out. I watched her catch a few waves and decided I could do it too. I moved way down to the left and tried to catch the edge of a face in the channel. Bad idea. The first wave I caught ran out of poop in twenty yards, and right behind it was a big guy that was crumbling as I caught it. I managed to stay up for a few yards and then got hit by the whitewater and pounded.
I went back out (why I did that escapes me) and watched Randy try to punch straight out through the middle of the reef. I didn’t see how that could work, and after a while, so did Randy. He caught a couple of good looking rides on the far inside and then I lost track of him.
The wind started picking up a little, then suddenly jumped right up to prime windsurfing force–probably 20-25 knots. I was being blown down the lineup. I had to drop to my knees and paddle like mad to get back to the channel, then I caught a ride through to the lagoon and started paddling in. I got about halfway there and discovered the camera was gone, so I turned around and went looking for it. I resolved to go as far as the reef and then run along with the wind and see if I could spot it. Nada. Expensive day.
Paddled in, shot the breeze with Frank (still healing and looking pretty pained), Randy and Chan. What great folks, always interesting to talk to. Randy is always stoked about something, right now he’s very excited about his new camera, and it’s a pretty amazing piece of gear. Chan is simply a really smart lady with well-considered, informed opinions. Damned good surfer too. And Frank is an all around good guy, dying to get back in the water.
I finally beat feet for the west side, tried S-Turns for a while, caught a few nice waves, but the wind came up and was blowing me all over the place. Wound up at Puamana mucking around in knee-high mushy waves. Puaman can serve up some tasty faces sometimes, but when it’s the only game in town it always feels like my old dating days, when you’d hit all the hot spots on Friday night until everything started closing, and then you’d wind up at Denny’s, grumpily eating a grand slam breakfast.